The grass is growing again so, if you haven’t already, it’s time to get your lawn mower or lawn tractor into action for another season. A little maintenance in spring means your rig will work when you want it to and cut grass better. Here’s what I do at my place.
Motor maintenance
Start with an engine oil change. Fresh oil is one of the best things you can give any small engine, especially when it’s been sitting all winter.
Over time, oil becomes contaminated and loses some of its ability to lubricate properly. This means more wear, more heat and less protection for internal parts.
Drain old oil and refill with the grade recommended in the owner’s manual (typically 10W30). I use full synthetic oil in all my equipment and changing it takes just a few minutes.
If you’ve got a lawn tractor, and it has an oil filter (not all do), replace that while you’re at it. One oil change at the start of the season goes a long way.
The engine air filter deserves attention, too. Lawn tractors work in especially dusty conditions, and the filter is what keeps grit from being pulled into the engine and triggering massive wear.
A clogged filter also reduces airflow, increases fuel consumption and robs power. Pleated paper filters can be cleaned lightly by tapping out dust or blowing them off with compressed air. Oiled foam filters can be washed in mineral spirits, re-oiled, then returned to service.
Blade maintenance
Sharp blades are the biggest factor in getting a good-looking lawn because they slice rather than tear the grass. If blades are in decent condition, sharpening them with an angle grinder works well.
Remove the blade, secure it in a vise, and grind evenly so you maintain balance from side to side. If the blade is badly worn, bent or cracked, replacement is the only option.
Tire maintenance
Tire pressure is another key lawn tractor detail, especially since all tractors come from the factory with tubeless tires. All tires lose air slowly, and if tire pressure goes low enough, the rubber can separate from the steel rim, making re-inflation difficult.
If that happens, wrap a ratchet strap clamp around the circumference of the tire and tighten it. This compresses the rubber and pushes the bead inward toward the rim. Add air as quickly as possible. Once the pressure begins to build, it forces the tire bead back in place, sealing as it should.
If you have a tire that keeps losing air between uses, one particular tire sealant can help. I’ve tried various sealants over the years with poor results, but one product that’s always excellent is called Muc-Off.
It’s marketed for bicycle tires, but I’ve used it successfully in lawn tractor tires and even front farm tractor tires. It’s never failed to stop a slow leak permanently, and adding some to a tire is much easier than repairing the usual way.
Battery maintenance
If you’ve got a lawn tractor, it’ll have a battery, and a trickle charger (sometimes called a “maintainer”) greatly extends battery life, especially when used over winter. Without that steady maintenance charge, batteries often go flat during long-term storage, and this shortens life substantially.
A trickle charger also saves you from having to remove the battery and carry it indoors for winter storage. Even an older battery that’s on its last legs can be used for years by keeping it plugged into a battery maintainer between mowings. My 15-year-old lawn tractor battery is on this kind of life support now.
Fresh oil, clean air, sharp blades, firm tires and a charged battery are the foundation of lawn equipment that starts easily, cuts well and keeps working all season. A little care in spring pays back every time the grass needs cutting.
